Mumbai - Goa - Mumbai

Thodi philosophy

It has been about 12 hours of ride all through the rains on roads which were on some occasions inviting while discouraging on others. My back pain is almost unbearable now, I am drenched in rain and dirt I take one last right turn to reach home. While I park my bike and loosen saddle bag a smile runs down on my face and there is sense of achievement. Happy for what? for riding crazily in rains on roads full of curves ? Yeah this all gives joy, satisfaction, pride and I am not the only crazy chap saying so .... I know guys like sumit, yogesh who ride thousands of miles in deadly terrain of Himalayas in extreme weather conditions and on real bad roads (if at all you can call them roads...)...but we all cherish these moments. Why?

I don’t know how to put it in words but the experience of riding on lonely roads with beautiful scenery is awesome it makes you feel as if you are directly communicating with nature also the fact that you have no one to trust except your bike and yourself makes you much more confident about yourself, this is journey which you are doing for yourself and have your own targets to achieve for.....this all give amazing sense of achievement, pleasure and satisfaction. This all can only be experienced and not put in words.

I started my preparation by reading all the trip logs thanks to internet now literally any information is just a click away. I read sumit's blog on Goa and got much required information then site from yogesh also helped a lot. I got saddle bag from cramster and decided that the break I am getting between job switch will be ideal time to visit Goa. Since it was mid of September I thought monsoon would be long over (though I was terribly mistaken) and tourist season might not have started so I will get all things cheap and the entire Goa would have been painted green.

Day One

I woke up at about 5 AM and after nice sound sleep for about five hours. Though it was 6 AM but it was still dark when I started my target was to cross Pen before taking first stop. Traffic was heavy due to road repair work but thanks to all the flyovers I cross Panvel by 7 and now the road was narrow and with more traffic mainly of trucks and ST buses. I crossed Pen at about 7:45. Finally decided to take a tea break found a road side "tapri" just next to konkan railway bridge ..asked for a special chai and biscuits....Tea was really good after some rest I started again ...whether was cloudy so ride was all more comfortable .It was becoming more and more scenic with ghats at frequent intervals.













There are many warning sign boards on NH-4 most of them in marathi but I guess they seems to work for me as when ever I thought of increasing speed more I passed by warning sign board like "This is highway not a Die Way" and many more which made me bit slow reminding me of the famous Quote "No matter how fast you go you will always find someone ahead of you"...so instead of speed I concentrated more on surroundings.

I stopped frequently to capture those beautiful, scenic surroundings with my brand new digital camera though I felt like clicking after every 500 mts or so but I knew I need to reach Goa before it gets dark.

I then stopped at HP petrol pump some 30 Kms ahead of Chiplun got the fuel and just when I was turning to Drive Inn to have lunch I noticed a notice in Marathi and I can make out that it states that all petrol pumps are on strike from 18th ...the day when I was suppose to return... I enquired more and came to know that all petrol pumps across maharashtra will be on indefinite strike from 18th. I made a rough calculation fuel tank capacity is about 13-15 lts and if get the tank up in goa with a millage of 50 I should make it to Mumbai. Then there was sigh of relief when this petrol pump guy told that reliance, essar and COCO pumps will remain open. I went to “Drive In” and had lunch was hungry enough to like the food then after taking some more rest started again. It was about 1:30 and as per my average speed I should hit Goa beach by 6:30 PM.

It was all cloudy so ride was really comfortable and since now it was konkan region at its best it was lot more scenic. Konkan railway line which I crossed many times is perfect example of how engineering can gel with nature for me konkan railway seems to be part of nature really state of art work done by people that’s what is called real engineering. Though I am also Mechanical Engineer by degree and Software Engineer by profession there is hardly anything I have done which can be classified as engineering. College was honeymoon that lasted for 4 years and job is on cutting edge technology .... I mean cut and paste .... Looking at engineering wonders like Konkan railway I always wish if I could be part of this sort of engineering.











Admiring nature, roads and konkan railway I crossed ratnagiri while I was some 20 kms away from sawantwadi heavens opened up and it started raining heavily. I stopped at a petrol pump immediately and rolled my camera in layers of poly bags. It was time for another cup of chai and waited for about 30-40 mins but rains showed no sign of stopping so I decided its better that I start else it would be rather difficult to drive in night and rains. Last entire stretch of 80 kms I was greeted by heavy rains and at times it was really difficult to drive. I was completely drenched in rain and dirt and all this encouraged me to drive without any more halts now I was in all hurry to reach Goa and ride on all familiar Calangute roads. But all this didn’t failed me to notice that there was no checking at the Goa Border check post that meant I can smuggle some wine on my way back ...off course for personal use only.

Finally I saw Calangute board I took the turn and now the road was familiar one but it was lot more difficult to ride with heavy rains and all the traffic with high beam. I had to remove my spectacles and concentrate really hard but the joy of reaching Calangute safely was more then enough to make me enjoy even these last 10 kms. I reached Calangute by 7:00 but by then was tired enough to land directly in the same hotel where we stayed last time. I parked my bike and first thing I did was to thank God for safe ride then I loosened my saddle bag and went to reception. Receptionist recognized me and no need to say he was surprised that I came on bike all the way from Mumbai. He told me that it was been raining for past 3-4 days.

I called up at home and informed about my safety. I opened saddle bag only to find that every cloth was wet thankfully I had kept Camera and Bike’s document in poly bags and so they were safe. But they claimed Cramster saddle bags are water proof …. No guys they are not … anyway one more lesson learned ‘Always pack everything in poly bags’ . I took out every cloth and put them to dry under fan. I took quick hot shower which was enough to wash way all tiredness so I headed straight to Calangute beach. As expected there very few people on beach and there were hardly any shacks. It was same calangute beach which was crowded till midnight few months back. But the sea was much more violent and waves were really high. It’s always great to sit facing the ocean it is like having a conversation with sea with every wave hitting the beach reminding you of something. I ordered for a drink this was same place where we had one of our most memorable parties some 5 months back. I called up Kshitij, Mansoor, Ghose da had long conversation with them and then also called up Ashish and informed him that it is raining like hell here. Ashish was suppose to join me on Saturday …news of rains didn’t seemed to hamper his spirits. I spend about three hours at beach with about one hour walk on the entire calangute beach stretch I was enjoying my solitude. I returned back to hotel and went to sleep.

Day Two

I woke late and it was drizzling after a cup of special tea I headed for baga beach. To my surprise there was not a single soul on the beach. Last time it was so much crowded that we even failed to notice Baga River. There were few fishermen there and few local kids were playing football. After clicking some snaps and strolling for about an hour I returned back to calangute beach .By then it had stopped raining so there were many locals on beach. I had my lunch at GTDC residency facing the sea. It started raining again I went back to hotel and slept when I got up was surprise to see nice sunshine I immediately headed for Anjuna Beach. All roads in North Goa seemed familiar to me and this time I never asked anyone about the route. Roads in Goa are narrow but very well maintained and there were hardly any pot holes.



Calangute Beach





Baga Beach



Baga Beach



Anjuna beach gives terrific view from top. Restaurants and bars were generally open and had some foreign tourist.Anjuna is popular among foreign tourists and is known for hosting rave parties but that only start sometime in November will definitely like to attend such parties. I spoke to a guy from UK, he had just landed in Goa and had plans to stay in goa for 4-5 months.....god what the hell he will do for 4-5 months .... I also like solitude but not to that extent ...I guess here in goa he can easily afford a lifestyle which in UK he can only dream for....Anjuna is also famous for flea market which is on Friday night but as per locals flea is at its charm only in peak season.



Anjuna Beach





I headed for Vagator beach I came to crossroads were I knew one road will go to Chapora fort while other to Vagator beach. I decided to take the Vagator one and thought will visit Vagator along with Ashish who was suppose to join me next day. Vagator beach was most calm beach of all....there were only two shacks on the beach. I crossed the hill and headed for little Vagator beach which is also known as ozrant beach. This beach is guarded by numerous palm trees though it’s rocky but has its own beauty. I sat on one of the rocks where waves came in with all the force. This beach is also very famous among tourists and you will find more foreigners then Indians during season. Huts are available for accommodation here but again during season only. These huts are situated right on beach and are not much expensive also. I saw few people constructing shacks I spoke to them they told me that they are praying for good season but Monsoon seems to be spoil sport it was mid of September and its raining as if its peak of monsoon. Generally tourist start coming to Goa by charted flights which start in October. I remained there until sunset and then headed back for hotel. It was all new experience to explore these lonely beaches with literally no one around but the vast sea. When there is no crowd on beaches one can feel the beauty all more as there is no one to look around for except nature. I enjoyed wandering on these lonely beaches which in just few days will be one of the most crowded one, it is privilege to enjoy these beaches as if they are our own personal beaches. It had started raining again so my plans to have dinner at Vagator washed out and I returned back to hotel but couldn’t stay there for long so decided to go to Baga beach again for dinner.



Church Near Vagator Beach



Vagator Beach


I decided to have dinner at Britos this place is right on beach and gives spectacular view of sea. This place was established in 1960’s and is famous for its chocolates and pastries. It was nice to have drink and food sitting under shed facing sea and off course heavy rains for company. I was there till midnight then I thought of exploring Baga roads. With three pegs of vodka running in the body it was fun to ride bike at minimal speed on narrow deserted roads of Baga. I found many bars pubs were still open and it looked like its still about 9. There is pub called Lazydays near CSM which hosts meeting for members of holiday-truths.co.uk. This website has a thread dedicated to Goa and is very useful for foreign tourists. Tito’s which is very famous among Indians was closed for renovation. Though this place is happening but I didn’t liked it reason being behavior of the staff be it bartender, waiter or bouncer if you are an Indian they are very rude to you and one can make out difference when same guy is entertaining a foreign tourist. It looks to me that they are happy enough to serve whites, to serve someone with all the grace who might be doing same job in his country. This is the only negative point of Goa and yes it does fade some charm out of this rocking place.

Day Three

Next day I woke up late and called up Ashish but his phone was switched off I was expecting that he will reach here by 10. After trying for 3-4 times I couldn’t get him his phone was still switched off I had no option but to wait for him. I had my breakfast and returned to hotel room then finally phone rang at about 11:30 Ashish told me that though he had reached Mapusa an hour ago but his mobile was out of order and hence was not able to recall neither mine nor anyone’s number. Strange dependence on technology has made us handicap imagine you loose your cell and you even don’t remember your home phone number. I explained him location of hotel he was there within 10 minutes. Now I have a company of not only sea and rain but of a human. We went to Calangute beach for lunch and were surprised to find many people most of them locals may be because it was weekend. After lunch we went back to hotel but hotel room was too boring to stay so we headed for Baga beach again and since it was not raining there were many people there in fact sun beds were also out. We went to a shack and ordered a drink with masala papad. I saw a foreign couple doing water skiing and God the guy was too good at it. It was wonderful sight to watch him deceive huge waves. It seemed to me like he was having competition with the giant sea to dodge its waves. I didn’t have camera with me for first time and really I regretted for not clicking.

We went back to hotel and it had started raining heavily again. Evening it was still raining but after cup of “Masala Chai” we went to Calangute market walking with umbrellas. I found new 24 hour pub which was not there last time. Then we went to Calangute beach again I had already decided that we will have dinner at place called “Suzo Lobo” which is located right on beach. This place had excellent ambience and live performances on weekends. We spend good three hours time there listening variety of music from rock to Hindi romantic songs.




Suzo Lobo at calangute beach





Nice Crowd !!!!!!!!!!

Day Four

Next morning I woke early at about 6:30 Ashish was also awake I looked out of window and it was not raining I turned back to Ashish and said “Chal jaldi ….” We were on road within 30 minutes and headed to Anjuna Beach after taking some snaps we went to Vagator beach and then climbed all the way to Chapora fort. This is same fort where Dil Chahta hai scene was shot. The view from top is truly mesmerizing and absolutely wonderful. Entire Goa was lush green we took many snaps of this astonishing view. It was about 9 by then and I was hungry by then so we returned to Calangute for breakfast.

vagator and anjuna beach again











With the views like this from Chpora fort I kept on clicking































Views from Chapora Fort

I had seen many hoarding for Ayurvedic Massage parlors and they had generated enough curiosity in me to try one of them. Generally these parlors offer 4 kinds of massage ranging from 300 to 1200 I thought of trying the one that was priced 400. I went to baga beach where I had spoken to one massage parlor guy earlier. After some negotiation he agreed for 350. I had this massage done which took about 45 minutes and I must say this falls under “not be missed” category. If you are in goa you must try this out. It was simply amazing and massage wiped off my every bit of tiredness. I spoke to this guy who was from kerala and has done some one year course in massage he has been in goa for past five years. Health tourism is being promoted a lot in Goa just to counter Kerala’s tourism which is famous for Ayurvedic treatment.

I went back to hotel and though my plans to visit South Goa were washed with rains but still I was enjoying this trip we then decided to visit Agauda fort, this fort doesn’t offer kind of view which Chapora fort does but it can be classified as fort unlike Chapora which is nothing but few broken walls. We then went to sinqureim beach. We had done water sports at Sinqreim beach and this time there was no beach at all only thing still there was the broken ship. There is one broken ship near to this beach which has been there for about seven years !!!!!!!!!...We went back again to Baga beach to have lunch.



Agauda Fort



Sinquirem Beach



Old Wrecked Ship at Sinquirem Beach



Evening we went to Calangute market and I purchased vodka, fenny and port wine and it all together amounted to 210 …God Goa is really cheap but only for alcohol ..we again went to Calangute beach I was interested to have another nice evening at Suzo Lobo but Ashish wanted to try something new …..after a drink at Calangute beach we went to Brito’s food, ambience, service everything was good we had nice time…. do try out Chocolate Moose at this place its awesome. We went back I had plans to leave by 6 so went to sleep ahead of another long ride. I packed my bags and this time everything in poly bags and then went to sleep.

Return Journey

I woke up at 6 and by the time I started my bike it was already 7 it was not raining and that made me happy I thought my return journey will not be accompanied by rains but that was mistake there was hardly any dry stretch. I never wanted to ride in rains and in fact I don’t like doing that but then I didn’t have any option.

I got tank up and got 2 lts of extra petrol filled in mineral water bottle …guy at petrol pump asked me the reason for this craziness I told him about the strike in Maharashtra and I need to travel till Mumbai hearing that I will ride all the way to Mumbai guy was even more amused. I crossed Goa border police check post safely but it had started raining by then. I kept on driving for two hours and then took a much needed break for tea and breakfast at about 9:30 I started again and thought of calculating my average speed so I took note of odometer and used stop watch in mobile for time. After riding for about 120 kms I stopped and calculated my average speed and it came out to be about 58 km/hr that made me happy as this entire stretch was in rains and had two ghats so this kind of average speed was not bad at all. It was not raining so I took out camera and took some snaps but by then it had again started raining. That’s the worst part of rains you cannot capture those beautiful pictures.But still I managed to click few.




















After covering few more kms I decided to break for lunch but finally decided to have vada pavs as lunch would have taken more then an hour and by then I was in hurry to complete the voyage. I stopped at road side tapri which was just before a ghat…I had two vada pavs and special masala tea. I was talking to the owner of this tapri and he informed me that just an hour ago there was terrible accident this is the last thing you want to hear when you are driving in rains at these ghats. I made mental note of not to drive fast. I started again I had covered about half the distance and as per my calculation I should ring bell of my flat by 8:00 PM.

Rain doesn’t seem to stop and my back was paining like anything I had Moov Spray I used it generously and got huge relief. I was shivering with cold and it was almost unbearable I stopped again and searched for fenny bottle in my bag I might sound funny but I needed something to warm me and believed me it worked two sips of fenny and I could feel the heat.

I reached Pen at about 6 PM only to find a huge traffic jam I have never seen such a traffic jam I checked with odometer and it was 1.8 kms long ….it took me about 45 mins to get out of it all thanks that I was on bike and not in car else it could have taken ages to get out of this. Reason for jam was a massive accident between a Santro and truck..santro was almost reduced to pieces. This is not a kind of sight you want to look into. I reached Panvel and called up at home informed about my safety and then started again. But this last stretch of 30 kms seemed to be longest of all. It was still raining and traffic was at its peak and Mumbai roads need no introduction. I dig in for some last packets of energy and continued.

Finally I reached safely at home. I unloaded my saddle bag with sense of victory and achievement and thanked God again. I rang door bell and Kshitij open the door and asked curiously “aree wah tu aa gaya kaise tha trip?”…..”GREAT” …that’s was what I could speak.

After taking a much needed bath to get rid of all the dirt I transferred all the snaps to Kshitij’s computer after relishing these snaps again I showed Kshitij all the stock of alcohol which I got from Goa ….and I was amazed by his reaction “Should I bring limca ????”….I nodded ….We made a drink and with this CHEERS TO GOA my trip ended.